Month: April 2011

Perspective Technique: Hollow Table (Top Craft)

Hollowing out a watch may look very cool, as if it is a unique approach to cater to the trend of the new era. No, it actually appeared in the human watchmaking world long, long ago. It is said that in 1760, when several major and well-known brands have not yet come out, French watchmaker André-Charles Caron created the first pocket watch with a hollow structure; he believes that in this way, people can see the timepiece. How the device works.

Royal Oak Double Balance Skeleton Watch with stainless steel case, 41 mm diameter, hours, minutes, seconds, double balance wheel, luminous hands and time stamp, 3132 automatic movement, 45 hours power reserve, sapphire crystal glass and bottom Cover, waterproof 50 meters, stainless steel chain strap.
Audemars Piguet
   Although Royal Oak expresses the screws directly on the bezel and often conveys a very strong sports style, each watch in this series is no less detailed than the elegant work of any high-end brand. And if you want to hollow out the face plate, it is bound to clearly show the brand’s high standards for the movement modification. Such as the Royal Oak double balance skeleton skeleton watch.

3132 self-winding movement, diameter 26.59 mm, 245 parts, 38 stones, double balance wheel, vibration frequency 21,600 rpm, power reserve 45 hours.
   Many models with hollow designs will express the balance wheel on the faceplate, allowing the wearer to directly watch the most dynamic picture; this work of AP is also. However, if the watch is turned over, it will be found that there are complete balance wheels, balance springs and bridge plates with fixed balance wheels at the front and rear of the movement, the so-called ‘double balance’ structure. When the power from the mainspring is transmitted to the escapement system, the two coaxial balance wheels will run simultaneously and in the same direction, while the balance spring will be scaled in the opposite direction to compensate for the azimuth difference. Eliminate the impact caused by gravity and improve the travel time accuracy by about 30%. In addition to the balance wheel, the hollow parts of this 3132 automatic movement are also amazing. Every chamfer and the mirror polishing that the viewer sees must be completed and assembled one by one by hand, which is not easy. And this is also the most admirable place from the appearance.

Clé de Cartier skeleton watch 950/1000 Palladium case, crown set with 1 sapphire, 41 mm diameter, hour, minute, 9621 MC automatic movement, power reserve 48 hours, sapphire crystal glass and bottom Cover, waterproof 30 meters, alligator strap, 18K white gold diamond buckle.
   Although the pebble-shaped case is not as common as the round shape, it is a very popular design from the 1960s to the 1970s. The lugs extend outward from the case and draw an arc under the uninterrupted lines. The case is shaped like an abalone. It is also called ‘abalone shell’. The most obvious feature of Cartier’s Clé de Cartier series is the pebble-shaped case, coupled with a mirror-like polishing treatment, which is more touching. The French ‘clé’ stands for ‘key’, and it was also the ‘key’ for winding and adjusting the timepiece in ancient times, until it was replaced by the crown that is well known to modern people. Therefore, Cartier took clé as inspiration for the crown design and set a rectangular sapphire as the brand has always done.

9621 MC self-winding movement, diameter 31.63 mm, thickness 5.66 mm, 165 parts, 28 stones, hollow automatic disk, vibration frequency 28,800 rpm, power reserve 48 hours.
   In fact, in general Clé de Cartier models, there is another keyhole-like pattern on the dial, which echoes the key represented by the crown. However, this timepiece with a cutout design is not the same, because there is no dial, which directly reveals the internal movement. However, it is still a time stamp, and it is a Roman numeral time stamp with classical flavor. On its movement bridge, it has both the structural substantive meaning and the function to meet the time reading requirements. It is a very clever way.
   The watch is driven by the 9621 MC automatic movement; although it is self-winding, there is no trace of the automatic disk on the hollowed surface. It was found that it also adopted a hollowed out design when turned to the case back. No wonder it can be hidden seamlessly! The function of the movement seems simple, but it is not unusual because of its unique wheel design. It is showing Cartier’s creative ability as a premium brand.

Première Camellia skeleton watch in 18K white gold with diamonds, 28.5 x 37 mm, hour and minute, self-made Calibre 2 manual winding movement, 48 hours power reserve, sapphire crystal mirror and case back, silk satin strap, There are also bridge and diamond 18K white gold diamond chain straps.
   Although Chanel has an indelible status in the world of fashion and boutiques, in the past, there has been no self-made movement that the watch industry attaches great importance to; in 2011, it was not officially established until the establishment of a fine watchmaking department at its G & F Châtelain watch factory Started the project of self-made movement, and in 2016 the first self-made movement Calibre 1. The Camellia Hollow Camellia, launched this year, is equipped with the second Calibre 2 self-made movement, and uses the most representative element of Chanel-Camellia.

Chanel’s second self-made movement, Calibre 2, uses layers of bridges and wheel trains to create a camellia flower that Madame Chanel loves.
   Camellia is the first bunch of flowers that Ms. Chanel’s life love Boy Capel gave her. Many of Chanel’s works are inspired by camellia, which also explains why Calibre 2 is presented with hollow camellia. Using the design of the ring bridge, Chanel hides the spring, gear and balance wheel and escapement in a round petal; the bridge is chamfered, ADLC (amorphous diamond-like carbon coating) and rhodium-plated finish are black. Texture or 19 hours with 246 brilliant-cut diamonds. This movement is not only hollowed out, but also stacked in layers to make the camellia from a flat to a three-dimensional, highlighting the beauty of the mechanical structure.
   Like Calibre 1, the bridge of Calibre 2 has a lion totem dedicated to the brand’s home-made movement; it symbolizes authority and strength, and also represents the constellation of Ms. Chanel. Equipped with the classic appearance of the Premiere series, it shows the charm of Chanel as the brand enters its 30th anniversary.

Patek Philippe
   In the 1970s, facing the thin, small and precise quartz movement, Patek Philippe began to develop a new generation of automatic winding movement, namely the Caliber 240, which was introduced in 1977. Although the 240 movement is a basic movement, it Very important in the history of Patek Philippe’s development; not only became a world-class ultra-thin movement with a thickness of 2.4 mm when it was launched, but also because it laid a deep foundation for Patek Philippe’s future complex models such as time zones, perpetual calendars and even astronomical functions. . In the 1970s, it stood out from the rest of the high-end brand’s dedication to machinery and the ‘elegance’ of quartz movements.

240 SQU hand-wound movement, diameter 27.5 mm, thickness 2.53 mm, 159 parts, 27 stones, vibration frequency 21,600 rpm, power reserve for at least 48 hours, hand-carved hollow bridge, 22K gold micro-automatic disk, Patek Philippe imprint .
   This year, the 40th anniversary of the birth of Calibre 240, Patek Philippe commemorates this great day with the Calatrava 5180 / 1R-001 skeleton watch. This timepiece is based on Ref. 5180 / 1G, launched in 2008, and changed the original 18K white gold case and bracelet to 18K 5N rose gold, showing a saturated, warm color. Adopt a completely hollow design, remove the movement parts and save more than 130 hours through fine craftsmanship, such as swirls, vines and other fine carvings; very difficult, but it is the most clear and perfect performance of 240 machines The movement of the core; and 12 movement rings also made of 18K 5N rose gold material can be used as the time scale. The outside of the barrel with the Calatrava cross-marking is engraved with the words ‘Patek Philippe Genève’, and the PP mark on the micro-automatic disc can also be seen by flipping it to the back.

Calatrava 5180 / 1R-001 skeleton watch 18K 5N rose gold case, 39 mm diameter, hour and minute, 240 SQU manual winding movement, Patek Philippe imprint, 48 hours power reserve, sapphire crystal glass and case back, waterproof 30 meters, 18K 5N rose gold chain.
   Equipped with the brand’s patented Spiromax® balance spring, made of Silinvar® silicon material, it can resist magnetic fields, temperature changes, and impact resistance; the end arcs make it expand and contract toward the same center, which solves the problem of uneven balance of the hairspring. ; Lightweighting reduces the impact of centrifugal force and gravity, and improves accuracy. The C-shaped weight of the Gyromax® balance wheel is also a major invention of Patek Philippe since 1949, allowing maintenance personnel to easily adjust it. Combining various designs innovated in various eras, the Calatrava 5180 / 1R-001 skeleton watch can be said to be a timepiece with both history and exquisite craftsmanship.

Métiers d’Art carved mechanical watch in 18K white gold case, 40 mm diameter, hours and minutes, 4400 SQ manual winding movement, 65 hours power reserve, sapphire crystal glass and case back, waterproof 30 meters, crocodile leather Strap.
Vacheron Constantin
   Vacheron Constantin started to create engraved movements in the 1920s. It is not the earliest, but it is a brand’s strong point. The difference from directly removing the faceplate to reveal the movement structure is that the engraving hollows out a large part of the material and engraves the pattern on the remaining parts. This is, of course, a very labor-intensive practice, but the craftsmanship displayed is quite delicate and beautiful, and there is nothing to say.

Hollowing out is a process of removing the lingering nucleus. Vacheron Constantin perfected the skeletonized movement through the delicate craftsmanship of the craftsman.
   The engraved pattern depends on the concept the brand wants to convey. Take this Métiers d’Art engraved mechanical watch as an example. It is the decoration pattern on the vault in the hall of the train station in the late 19th century and the necessary large-scale in the station. The clock and its Roman numerals are fully reproduced. The 4400 SQ manual-winding movement in the 18K white gold case is actually the result of carving out and decorating Vacheron Constantin’s acclaimed 4400 movement. However, it can be seen from the final work that this is not a simple task; every part and every groove is not quickly and mass-produced by advanced machines, including 12 o’clock to decorate the barrel Maltese cross, as well as the triangle pattern made with the oblique cut above. The chamfers commonly used for movement modification also appear in various details. The mirror polishing makes the lines staggered and contrasted with the matte polished parts. In addition, the bottom layer of the hollowed-out hour markers uses the technique of big fire enamel, which reflects a deep texture of gloss.
   Thanks to the movement, which is only 2.8 mm thick, the watch can be presented in a slim size of 7.5 mm. It is also because of the limited space that it is even more admirable for such delicate and flawless creations.

Watches Century