She is a watchmaker at La Chaux-de-Fonds and a photographer in Chicago, but they share a common mission: to capture and present Parmigiani The beauty of the Monda Tonda Métrographe watch—either by dial color or by urban glance; specifically, the former is to make the dial on the nickel surface dark blue, while the latter is to be inspired by the depth of Lake Michigan , So you can take photos of your watch with the same feel.
Photographers walk the streets in the city to find the ideal lens effect. It was summer and the morning light was dazzling across the roof. Tall buildings stood in front of him, and when he pointed his lens at these giants, the problem appeared: in this city, the light was too strong or too weak. When the sun is full, the light is dazzling; but if you choose a shadow, the light is too dark. This sharp bipolar contrast can be seen everywhere, and the photographer can hardly find a medium that satisfies him to obtain more light and shadow effects that are more helpful for shooting. He can only keep looking.
On the other side, the dial maker of the Parmigiani watch factory is holding her breath and making the brand’s signature deep blue dial. She has always been so focused. Creating this color tone is an out-of-the-box art work, and she has always been cautious, despite almost never missing it. All preparations are ready: a dedicated plating tank, a certain current, and precise temperature control. She dipped the support into the trough and moved the support skilfully, as if only she knew how to move. Under the action of electrolysis, the color began to change-she had witnessed this spectacular process many times, but she would be surprised every time she saw it. The initial bright orange turned into a rust-like brown; next, a purple tone appeared, a deep purple like the eggplant skin; finally, waves of blue appeared, which was a process from blue-violet to blue … After a while, Deep Blue finally showed up, and the magic stopped here. She skillfully shifted her expenses to keep Deep Blue. If you continue to stay in the tank for two to three seconds, it will turn into magenta and then gray. Staring at the deep blue created by her own hands, she smiled and thoughtfully: this is the dance of the passion of current and color, and they present exquisite art. You must know how to make the most of external factors and wait for the right time.
‘Take full advantage of external factors and wait for the right time.’ The photographer in Chicago suddenly opened up and found a solution. The glass façade of the skyscrapers surrounding him gave him a glimmer of hope, as the glass reflected light at certain times of the day. So what he has to do is wait for the moment when the glass wall happens to reflect sunlight, in order to present the precise balance of light and shadow. He chose the point where the contrast between light and shadow was captured rather subtly, and then quietly waited for this moment to come. At the moment when the sunlight was transmitted at a perfect angle, he decisively pressed the shutter and captured an eternal moment.
Métro movements-PF 310 and PF315
In 2014, Parmigiani launched the Métro series, in which the Tonda Métropolitaine is equipped with the PF 310 movement and the Tonda Métrographe is equipped with the PF 315 movement. This series of new movements are entirely manufactured by Parmigiani. The brand’s manufacturing center, Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, has advanced manufacturing processes optimized for the brand. Therefore, the series of movements demonstrate Parmigiani’s high industry standards.
Automatic production lines and the use of impressions ensure consistent production, creating a reliable movement with no compromises. Therefore, these rationalized manufacturing processes are repeatable, both in terms of quality and precision. In addition, manufacturers have created ‘one-piece’ designs to facilitate the production of multifunctional components as much as possible, thereby streamlining the setup.
In the end, Parmigiani was able to devote all his professional skills to improving the accuracy of the movement. Take the variable inertia balance (often referred to as the ‘inertia balance’) as an example. Thanks to this, the so-called standard needle structure is no longer needed. This innovation makes it possible to adjust the moment of inertia by using an eccentric weight, so that the so-called standard adjustment operation of the active length adjustment of the balance spring is no longer necessary. In the long run, it can also function stably, making the watch impact resistant and ensuring excellent isochronism. In addition, the design of dual barrels further enhances this stability. Compared to single barrels, the energy output of dual barrels is more stable and linear.
As the final stage of the manufacturing process, the master craftsmen modify all parts by hand to create effects that the machine cannot reproduce. The bridge is chamfered on a bench-top grinder, all visible parts of the movement are polished with pearl dots, and the Geneva wave decoration makes the whole work more perfect. In a way, each movement is the result of a lot of manual work.
This movement in the Métro series can be called a professional miracle, where industrial power, watchmaking skills and handicrafts collide passionately. In the early stages of production, the resource gains obtained through industrial manufacturing methods are transferred to the later stages of production, which are used to enhance the perceived value and actual value of the product. The economies of scale achieved during the manufacturing process are fully utilized to optimize job performance. Similarly, the time saved in the previous stage is transferred to the handicraft and decoration work in the later stage, which makes the product truly wonderful and unique. This movement in the Métro series demonstrates the superior technical level of an independent watchmaking center.
MÉTRO Collection-TONDA MÉTROGRAPHE and TONDA MÉTROPOLITAINE
The Métro series of watches embodies the style and magic of the world’s metropolises-the people there, and the rapid pace that dominates the movement of urban people-this is the first time that Parmigiani has released such watches. The entire collection includes ‘Métrographe’ for men and ‘Métropolitaine’ for women.
Asymmetric long case
Both the men’s and women’s watches have a rounded stainless steel case, and both have elongated shapes, which are more elegant overall. The watch exhibits a modern urban design, more elegant than other classics of the brand, reminiscent of the Tonda 1950 watch. Both the movement and its case have been designed with precision to create a slim and elegant case intermediate.
The unique mystery of the Métro collection is that the watch is not symmetrical; it presents two different contours. The contour of the left-hand side excluding the crown is traditional and classic, showing the brand’s signature drop-shaped lugs. In contrast, in the contour on the right-hand side, the elongated lugs extend all the way to the crown, surrounding the crown and hugging the chronograph function button on the men’s watch. This asymmetry gives the watch a unique personality that is subtle and stylish; a modern twist that subverts tradition.
Contrast beauty of the dial
The contrast principle was applied in the presentation of the dials of the Métro series, thus highlighting the unique aspects of the work.
On the Tonda Métrographe men’s watch, the minute and hour counters are highlighted to highlight the watch’s complex timing functions. On watches with white grained dials, the two chronograph dials are gray with blue dials, while on black or dark blue models, the outline of the chronograph dials is outlined with luminous materials to make them clear during the day. Conspicuous, flashes slightly at night. The two counters together form an inclined ‘8’ shape, which is a characteristic symbol of the Parmigiani brand.
On the Tonda Métropolitaine, feminine radians add a soft touch to the watch’s modern lines. The elongated case intermediate contrasts with the ‘flinqué’ ripple decoration on the dial, as the latter presents a continuous wave-like decoration. The numbers and time scales are embedded in a rounded relief on a flat background of straight lines.