Interior sketch of IWC Portuguese Tourbillon Retrograde Watch
为什么 Why do people need retrograde tables?
说明 If you want to explain what a retrograde table is, I have to talk about why people need a retrograde table.
绝大多数 For most people, the function of the retrograde watch is optional-it can not display more information besides time, it can not make the timekeeping of the watch more accurate, nor can it extend the life of the watch. You know, when a watch uses the retrograde function, the number of collisions inside the watch is very high. In terms of 30-second retrograde, within one day, the mechanical structure in the watch must withstand 2880 bounces. The components of the retrograde mechanism in the movement are subject to frequent and huge stress. We must pay great attention to serious issues such as stability and ability to withstand huge stress.
So why do people need a retrograde table?
People naturally think of the decorative aspect. After all, the function of ‘reverse jump’ is very unique. Although we can’t reverse the time, it is not difficult to make the watch turn a few times. This is also the selling point of many people for this big book, but in fact, the reason why retrograde watches appear in front of people is not to satisfy people’s spiritual desire to ‘back to the past’. Because the watch uses a retrograde device, the area of the dial is greatly reduced, which also provides space for adding other functions to the watch-if this retrograde device is not used, all hands will have to be on a shaft The size of many watches will increase dramatically, and the diameter of the dial may even be larger than your wrist. Since the retrograde design, the design space of the watch has been greatly released. Now, Mo said that the second hand can be retrograde, even minutes, hours, dates and days can be retrograde. The Le Pont des Amoureux from Van Cleef & Arpels we listed in the previous issue also uses a retrograde design.
Well, let’s talk about what a retrograde watch is.
‘Reverse jump’ refers to a way for the hands of the watch to run. It is different from the traditional hand that rotates in a circle. The ‘reverse jump’ type of hand is one-way. When the indication scale is full, the pointer will return to the starting point of the scale instantly. Then repeat the new process. Therefore, the ‘retrograde’ scales are all fan-shaped, and the axis of the pointer is generally made on the edge of the dial. The arc of the scale fan is less than 180 degrees, typically between 120 and 150 degrees.
还有 Another way of saying ‘reverse jump’ is called ‘flyback’. However, ‘flyback’ is just a convention, but strictly speaking, the ‘flyback’ type should refer to the chronograph. When the hands are all reset to zero, it is also completed instantly. ‘Flyback’ and ‘Reverse Jump’ look similar in function, but the internal mechanical structure and working principle are completely different. The difference is that the ‘reverse jump’ type pointer is arc-shaped, and the ‘reverse jump’ type return is completed automatically; while the ‘flyback’ chronograph pointer is round and round, its return to zero requires manual Button operation can also be done from left and right directions. For example, the Chanel J12 Mysterious Flyback Watch. This watch has three sophisticated complications: a tourbillon, a flyback minute hand, and a crown equipped with a clutch system. It is also the world’s first ingenious combination that deserves to be written into the vast and profound Clocks dictionary.
逆 The ‘reverse jump’ type originally belonged to the ancient clock design, first appeared on a special pocket watch about 200 years ago. This pocket watch was made by Baodi at that time, and its dial surface was fan-shaped, so it was called a fan-shaped watch. 100 years later, E. Koehn carried forward the device and applied for a patent with a retrograde second hand. Since then, retrograde figures have frequently appeared in various function dials. Now, the retrograde device has become the favorite of many manufacturers, and basically any pointer function has realized retrograde. The retrograde function on the market today is used to display the date, day of the week, hours, minutes, seconds and so on. However, there is a small flaw here, especially for watches with a date retrograde design, which only retrogrades once a month. If you are not careful, you will miss the wonderful picture of the instantaneous hand response. Therefore, most manufacturers prefer to ‘reverse’ the minute and second hands. The easiest to show the beauty of retrograde is the 30-second double retrograde function, which means that two 30-second retrograde hands complete the 1-minute operation.
Someone once explained the principle of the inverse jump table like this:
STEP 1: The vortex bounce cam and the rewind wheel control the reverse bounce minute hand or vortex bounce cam of the second hand in the clockwise direction, and the rewind wheel advances in the counterclockwise gear. On the faceplate, move the second or minute hand backwards toward the bottom of the sector scale.
2STEP2: Gears fall off after the time is up. When the bouncing cam travels to the top of the vortex shape, and at this time the return wheel reaches the bottom of the gear, the vortex spring cam will come off from the return wheel. At this time, the retrograde seconds or minutes hand on the dial has reached the bottom of the sector scale.
STEP3: After the rebounding and falling-off condition of the reverse action occurs, the hairspring beside the reversing wheel applies a reaction force to instantly spring the reversing wheel lever and the bouncing cam back to the original position. At this time, the retrograde seconds hand or minute hand on the faceplate will return to the origin, and then the first step of the mechanical operation.
If you don’t figure out what the proper terms are, such as ‘vortex bouncing cam’ and ‘return lever’, I’m afraid I will be confused in the face of these words. In short, about the principle of retrograde, it is enough to remember one point. In the retrograde table, the most important thing is a bouncing cam, looking sideways, like a Roman hat. It is its existence that allows the major deities on the dial to return home instantly.
However, although it is easy to understand in principle, it is not easy to achieve perfection.
The problem comes from two points:
1. There are many internal impacts of the retrograde meter, which may cause metal fatigue. The bouncing cam rebounds very frequently. At the moment of the rebound, the stress concentration is too large. Therefore, under the repeated movement of the rebound component, metal fatigue and failure are more likely to occur than mechanical structures with other functions. It’s like a child who wants to bend a wire in his hand without much effort, just need to repeatedly press it in the same place of the wire.
2. Returning the retrograde table also takes time. This insignificant time will accumulate for a long time and will cause errors. You can probably imagine how a bent wire in the watch will affect other components-either loss or deformation, and the time in the retrograde seconds will be wrong, and most of the time What happens is mostly delayed bounce, which is slow seconds.
Of course, these two issues are simply clouds in the eyes of watchmakers. By using a more excellent metal material and reducing the kinetic energy of the impact, the problem of metal fatigue can be solved well. And the error is simpler-the time of instant reply is definite, then you only need to calculate the time of each instant reply, and then modify it in the design. Therefore, what the master really cares about is how to achieve more gorgeousness in a limited space through retrograde. IWC Portuguese Tourbillon Retrograde Watch
Movement: 51900 movement
Frequency of tremor: 19800 times / hour
Power reserve: 7 days (168 hours)
Tourbillon weight: 0.433 g
的 The magic of this watch is that whenever the end of the big month (January, March, May, July, August, October, and December) is reached, the date display automatically jumps back to the first day. In small months, you can use the quick adjustment function to advance the date display and then jump to the first day of the month. The previous small seconds hand is now replaced by the minute tourbillon, with a 7-day power reserve display, and the barrel is powered by the proven Pellaton automatic winding system of the movement family with high efficiency.
Van Cleef & Arpels Butterfly Symphony
Case: White gold with round diamond case (38mm)
Dial: Backlit silhouette enamel craft dial, platinum bridge, carved mother-of-pearl oak decoration
Back: Carved chassis
Bracelet: crocodile leather strap or plaid chain, white gold with round diamonds
Clasp: White gold with diamond clasp
Obviously, Van Cleef & Arpels has a soft spot for the function of retrograde. First, there is a ‘day in Paris’, and then there are ‘five weeks on a balloon.’ Witness the passage of minutes and the pace of time. Two precious butterflies fluttered and fluttered, shuttled between the magnificent oak branches and leaves, interpreting the gentle and agile time. Girard Perregaux Cat’s Eye Double Retrograde Diamond Women’s Watch
Movement: GP 03390 automatic winding movement
Power reserve: 46 hours
Case: 18K white gold case with 309 diamonds
Waterproof: 30 meters
尺寸 Case size: 35.25mm x 30.25mm
上方 Above the dial is the moon phase profit and loss window, with a dark blue background like a night sky with the moon and star pattern. The retrograde seconds hand and retrograde weekday retrograde display under the dial express the importance of Girard-Perregaux to the development of women’s complex functions. The Cat’s Eye double retrograde diamond, which has the same appearance and connotation, was selected as the best watch of the year by Montres Passion, the Swiss authoritative watch magazine, which established the GP Girard-Perregaux watch in the field of women’s complex functions.