Category Archives: watches

Jacques: I Made A ‘quartz’ Watch That Everyone Can’t Understand

The second hand of the quartz watch jumps away, and the second hand of the mechanical watch sweeps away. This has become the norm for many watch friends to identify quartz watches and mechanical watches. But in fact, jumping seconds is not the patent of quartz watch, the second hand of mechanical watch can still jump away. It’s just that such mechanical skip seconds watches are relatively rare, and watch friends rarely hear of them. Why are quartz watches generally ‘jump seconds’? The reason for the second hand to jump and move is simple, just to save power. There is an electric motor in the quartz movement. When the motor receives a signal from the quartz crystal, it starts to operate and drives the hands to rotate. The more the motor turns, the more power it naturally consumes. The quartz watch itself is small, and the capacity of the coin cell battery it carries is not large. If you keep the motor working, the watch’s standby time will be much shorter. Sweep-second quartz movements reach 320 microamperes at 1.2 volts. If changed to jump seconds, then the current is only 100 microamps. In other words, under the same circumstances, the standby time of the skip-second quartz movement is 3 times that of the sweep-second movement! So why are mechanical watches generally ‘sweep seconds’? In fact, all current mechanical watches are “jumping seconds”, just because the second hand’s beating range per second is too small and the speed is too fast, it is difficult for us to detect with the naked eye. If you don’t believe it, watch friends can try to turn on the phone and use the ‘slow photography’ function to take pictures of their mechanical watches. Once the speed slows down, you will find that the second hand will jump 3-5 times per second. The root of the second hand jumping is the balance with hairspring, which has a fixed swing frequency. Jules Emmery “Quarterly Jumping Seconds” Jumping Seconds Pocket Watches On antique pocket watches, we can also encounter some models with jumping seconds function. They are equipped with separate jumping seconds small dials, where the hands will change every second Beat 4 times. We usually refer to it as a ‘quarter-jump second’. This pocket watch was produced in large quantities by British brands in the late 18th century. However, this ‘quarter-jumping second’ is not what we usually call ‘jumping the second’. In the narrow sense, jumping the second means ‘the second hand beats once every second.’ Jump stopwatches are almost always in professional fields, such as HNA and medical. One of the most important things about a ship drifting on the vast sea is the sailing clock, because the time on the sailing clock can be used to know the longitude of the place where the ship is located, which is related to the life of the whole ship. Precise observatory sea clocks can not fully meet the requirements of seafarers. Jumping seconds observatory sea clocks have emerged at the historic moment, helping them to proofread before going to sea and the mother clock, and to read the precise time at sea down to every second. And medicine can read the second hand time more accurately and conveniently by jumping the stopwatch, and then know the specific heart rate of the patient. There are two main solutions to change the original ‘one-fifth hop second’ into a narrow one-second hop. The first is the double wheel train, which is common in pocket watches and ship clocks. The movement has two sets of gears, one for the normal movement of the movement, the second is dedicated to jumping seconds, the stop of jumping seconds does not affect the normal movement of the first set. And if you want to achieve seconds jumping on a watch with a small movement size, it is usually the second solution, ‘single wheel train’. Omega Synchrobeat Jumping Second Watch @ 富 艺 斯 Omega Omega launched a 1 second watch named “Synchrobeat” in 1954, which adopted the “single wheel” design. About 1,000 pieces were produced and put on the American market. However, there are two shortcomings in the jumping seconds of a single wheel train. First, it is necessary to forcefully intercept the energy of the normal train, which affects the normal movement of the movement; Worn and shockproof. At the time, these two problems could not be solved, so Omega later had to recall the ‘Synchrobeat’ jumping seconds watch for the brand reputation. Only 17 were in the market, which is one of the rarest Omega antique watches. And the Rolex watch Tru-beat Ref.6556 has also disappeared into the long river of history for similar reasons. In the fall of 2015, Jaeger-LeCoultre released two watches from the Geophysic series. The basic version is a simple three-pin calendar model, and more complicated is the addition of World Time functions. Looking at the two forms from the front, there are actually no bright designs. The style of its appearance comes from the historical models of the world’s brands in the 1950s. Even the world time models, its color matching and layout have already been practiced on other watch brands. However, these two models are equipped with a rare mechanical skip-second movement, whose second hand will beat once every second, which the brand calls ‘True Sceond’. Both giants Omega and Rolex have encountered Waterloo on this type of watch. Will Jaeger-LeCoultre’s ‘True Sceond’ really make the same mistake again? But Jaeger-LeCoultre, known as a ‘technical madman’, was prepared this time. First of all, Jaeger-LeCoultre uses an additional hairspring (red part in the figure above) to accumulate energy near the barrel first. Although it still intercepts the energy of the normal gear train, it greatly reduces the interference with the movement of the movement. Second, the product Instead of using the traditional “escapement” as the “snap-in” device for jumping seconds, the home uses a simpler control lever (green part above) and five-star gear (orange part above), although it still exists Spontaneous wear but improved durability and shock resistance. In order to stabilize the seconds jump function, the second hand of Jaeger-LeCoultre watch is also specially treated. Our common analog watch, whether it is a mechanical movement or a quartz movement, their hands generally have a tail, especially the second hand, rarely see the second hand without a tail. In addition to being visually balanced, this tail also plays a balancing role in practice. Otherwise, the pointer is heavy on one side and light on the other, and it is easy to wear. When it is severely impacted, the gear will be damaged more. Therefore, most of the second hand that moves most often will have a small tail. In order for Jaeger-LeCoultre to balance the second hand, in addition to the second hand with a tail, the tail of the second hand is thickened (in the green part of the picture above) to increase weight, so that the entire second hand is balanced around the center of the axis. This aggravating process only appeared on high-end watches and was ignored by many brands. In addition to the ‘jump seconds’ fun, its balance wheel is also very distinctive. In 2007, Jaeger-LeCoultre released the Extreme Lab 1 concept watch, which is completely free of any lubricant. For this experimental product, the Gyrolab balance was also carefully designed for the experimental product, which was later used in the Jaeger-LeCoultre movement. Compared with the traditional circular balance wheel, this non-circular structure reduces air friction, and also incorporates the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand logo into the balance wheel shape design, which is different and quite interesting. Because of the small market, many watch brands, even if they introduced mechanical skip seconds watches, were generally based on conventional movements. Since it is a superimposed modification, naturally there will be compromises and concessions on some structures. In order to achieve reliable jumping seconds, Jaeger-LeCoultre specially developed a new self-produced Cal.770 series movement. Released in the fall of 2015, three years have passed. Jaeger-LeCoultre compared to the brand’s Master Series moon phase watches at the same price, and the market’s feedback is indeed quite flat. Many watch friends gave up this real second because the second hand moved too much like a quartz watch. Spending tens of thousands of dollars to buy a watch, but I was mistaken for an electronic watch, it was a little awkward indeed. But in my opinion, this is what it is worth. In the current watch market, there are too many homogenized products, and there are rare special styles. The rare jumping seconds watch fully meets the requirements of ‘there is nothing I have’. What’s more, the Jaeger-LeCoultre movement design is very clever, even when compared with other brands’ higher-priced same-function jump-second watches, it is also ‘people have me.’ People have me, people have me. Jaeger-LeCoultre is really a forgotten watch.

Omega Co-axial Escapement Exhibition Held In Singapore

In order to commemorate the pioneering and risk-taking spirit of the Omega brand in watchmaking technology, the brand and Cortina jointly presented a grand ‘Omega Co-axial Escapement Exhibition’, the exhibition time is from August 23 to September 1 The venue is located in the exhibition hall of Paragon Shopping Center. It is open daily from 10:30 am to 8:00 pm.

 Illustration of coaxial escapement

 The 9-day exhibition will lead visitors to discover the innovative technology in each of Omega’s superb mechanical timepieces, giving citizens the opportunity to see for themselves every part of a precision timepiece.

 The coaxial escapement is the first practical new escapement in more than 250 years, and it has an epoch-making significance for Omega and the world’s mechanical watchmaking industry. The biggest difference of this revolutionary escapement system is that it is not an improvement and improvement of the traditional lever escapement system, but uses a completely different double escapement wheel structure, which fundamentally changes The way of mechanical power transmission. Friction is one of the biggest enemies of mechanical watches. The most significant innovation advantage of the coaxial escapement is that it greatly reduces the friction in the movement, which brings a more permanent and excellent running time performance to the watch.

    Following the launch of the first coaxial movement in 1999, Omega has continued to explore the coaxial road, optimized the structure of the coaxial escapement system, and improved the original double-layer coaxial escape wheel to a three-layer type. The coaxial escapement wheel, and the pioneering technology, successfully minimized the friction in the movement, making the performance of the Omega coaxial watch even more extraordinary.

 This exhibition not only shows Omega’s long-term technological innovations, but also shows many research results equipped with the latest movements. Many Omega landmark movements and watches will meet you.

 Omega’s coaxial development path is confirming the prediction of the inventor of the coaxial escapement, British watchmaker George Daniel: ‘In the 21st century and beyond, it will make mechanical watches even more A watch for many. ‘

Glashütte Original Christmas Selection Automatic Watch

The diamonds of the Glashütte Original self-winding watch will reflect the happy smiles of the family at Christmas.
 When the small lanterns on the eaves lighted up one by one, and when the falling snow on the windowsill piled up little by little, the children laughed and chased by the warm fireplace, and there was a hymn in the distance. advent.

Christmas gifts continue to write classics
 Quietly take out the Christmas gifts prepared for your family and put them in red socks. Wait for the next day to accept their favorite joy and praise, and hug each other so that the diamonds of the Glashütte automatic winding watch reflect you. Happy smile! Let this moment be forever fixed in that slim and slender black Roman numeral time scale, let this classic become a token of witness to heaven!

 This classic will definitely win praise! Slim black Roman numerals, silver dial, track minute scale, pear-shaped blue steel hour hand, blue steel seconds hand with ‘G’ logo. The sapphire crystal surface and case back are anti-glare treated, giving a glimpse of the classic dial design. The case is made of distinguished rose gold and the outer ring is set with sparkling diamonds, making it the perfect choice for the festival.

 The transparent sapphire crystal back gave him the opportunity to explore the movement of this classic masterpiece, demonstrating Glashütte’s outstanding achievements in watchmaking. 39-59 self-winding movement entirely made by Glashütte, all steel parts are chamfered, gooseneck trimmer, gold sleeve on the outside of the jewel bearing, and fixed with blue steel screws; traditional quarter The triple splint and the hollow automatic pendant, both decorated with Glashütte ripples, embody the traditional German top watchmaking standards.